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Verity swung her board hard left to avoid the jagged rocks. She was so used to surfing this stretch of beach, that she now did it almost without conscious thought. Even so, she wiped out as the wave, the board, and her balance all disagreed at once on how much was too much. When her head broke the surface of the water, she kicked out powerfully with her long legs and caught her board in a few strokes. She was already in the shallows, and so had no trouble walking out of the cool surf.

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